Moonboard v6On 31.10.2020 by Arashikinos
Matt Samet on the first, layback crux of Big Poppa 5. Until he addressed his power deficiencies with specific training, including MoonBoarding, he could only get through this crux one time in three. That night while our group savaged the buffet at the resort where we were staying, I talked about my frustrations. When Nina offered to develop a training protocol for me for Big Poppa, my spring sport-climbing project, I jumped at the opportunity.
That night, we talked about goals, strengths, and deficiencies. So, to build raw power, Nina prescribed twice-weekly MoonBoarding as the central foundation. I was also supposed to campus sorry, Nina, I baileddeadlift umm, about that…and do weighted pull-ups and max hangs OK, I did do these—good job, me!
The holds seemed way too small, crimpy, and distant. And I had no idea what to do with my feet, conditioned as I was by commercial setting to expect a scattering of helpful foot jibs—and so my feet would rip off the wall, leaving me swinging away from the degree overhang without the requisite core tension to reel it back in.
I just wanted to go back to the bouldering cave downstairs and do laps on move problems that suited my enduro-pig style, that flowed and felt easy. Fuck this falling off six-move, sandbagged, jumpy problems shit! I thought. I just wanna go climbing. That day at the MoonBoard there was another climber, much stronger than me, well-versed in how to move on the dynamic problems.
He was using the tool well and effectively, and moreover looked like he was having fun. Like, I can barely hang on. My second MoonBoard session went better. Just look for problems that look good to you. As green as I was to MoonBoarding, I still thought I had to tick a bunch of problems at a given grade before moving on to the next.
So V6 would be V9, V7 would be V10, and so on. A test drive of any of the benchmarks go ahead, give Mitch Master Hard a quick spin would seem to confirm the logic. MoonBoard ratings are a world unto themselves, a bottomless vortex of one-upmanship sandbaggery, and you just have to take the problems for what they are regardless of the grade. If it looks like you can pull on the holds, great; if not, move on. For the uninitiated, the MoonBoard is on its surface a relatively simple training tool that is in fact infinitely complex.
Campus board vs Moon board
The holds are situated in the same spot on every board with that particular hold setand are rotated at prescribed angles corresponding to the cardinal directions. So, for example, hold H10 on every MoonBoard with the set would be the big, white, incut jug, with its rotational arrow pointing north.
Having this standardized grid lets users the world over try the same problems using an app that interfaces with a database of problems. One of the coolest features of the board is that the problems are crowdsourced, plugged into a database by users. With holds on the set and on the setthe options are essentially limitless. As of Septemberthere were 55, problems in the database. Meanwhile, users can comment on and log problems, and each grade also has myriad benchmark problems.
The benchmarks tend to be the best problems, with wild, engaging, consistently difficult moves; they also tend to be the most difficult, and ticking a benchmark V-whatever-at-your-limit can take days. Grab a couple holds, put your feet on, jump for a grip, put your feet back on, repeat a few times, snag the top of the board, jump down. Voila, easy! However, almost all of these videos are filmed head-on, flattening out the angle, belying the true effort it takes to generate momentum at 40 degrees past vertical.
And the climbers posting are often very strong—and have worked on the problems for god-knows-how-long. InMoon and other Sheffield climbers established a training cooperative in an empty byfoot classroom at the Anns Grove School, an old Victorian school where the Sheffield City Council was renting space to local artists.
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The Classic 25: America's Best Boulder Problems
It only takes a minute to sign up. I seem to have hit a plateau in my progression and it is super frustrating. Indoors, I flash V4 range climbs but then work and work V5 and get one every few goes.
I am focusing more on bouldering at the moment, so any tips or training schemes would be beneficial! Before embarking on specifics, a word of advice: learn to love plateaus. When beginning climbing, we make drastic improvements seemingly every time we go out. As we improve, gains become more and more difficult.
There will still be jumps in ability, but they will become more and more sporadic. Learn to love climbing for the movement and adventure, for the striving towards mastery. Unless you're particularly unfit, you generally don't need to focus too much on climbing specific fitness at this stage. That being said, core exercises and gentle hangboarding would generally be beneficial at around the stage it sounds like you're at. Take an honest assessment of your abilities--what are your strengths and weaknesses?
You say you regularly flash V Train your weaknesses. Actively seek them outlook for your "vegetable problems" that you know you should really work on, not just your "dessert problems" that you can flash to show off. Try climbing in styles that challenge your habits: intentionally use uncomfortably high or low feet, climb as slowly and statically as possible, climb as fast and dynamic as you can, Intentional practice.
So you just flashed a V4.Oli Grounsell making it easy for himself by getting well strong on the Moonboard. Image by Stefan Evan Niedermeyer. The angle, T-nut spacing and hold alignment are mapped according to the Moon Board specifications available for download from the Moon website www. Your budget will dictate as to whether you order one, two or all three sets.
The framework for building the actual board is relatively inexpensive, but it is the holds that will seriously dent your wallet.
Building the Moon Board is covered in detail via their website, so this review only deals with the pros and cons of using the end product. First up, for anyone that has not bouldered on a home woody, this setup may obviously seem a little alien.
The important thing to mention here is that this is just one training tool in a long list of others that will make you a stronger climber. It is not a standalone miracle worker.
Being a training tool, its benefits heavily depend on what you are training for. At a basic level, the board was designed with outdoor climbing in mind. Peak District limestone is polished, crimpy, and steep, and what better way to train for an outdoor project on such terrain than on a home woody seepage optional?
Steve testing his Moon Board, which has a mix of Moon and random holds. Image Steve Kelly collection. One day, sick of the constant darkness, it went in search of a new home — and found it in an unused schoolroom. It has become so popular in fact, that the current waiting period on hold sets in Australia is four to six weeks.
Instagram and YouTube have heavily influenced climbers and gyms to install one, and with the latest release of a freestanding version, as well as the promise of new hold sets and a 25 degree relative — it is set to be on the scene for some time. There are no big holds, and by big holds I mean four-finger, two-joint depth holds. If you want to warm up, then you are best doing so in an alternative environment. Or it could just be that the grades are indeed — sandbagged.
Then there are the users.A dedicated climber who spent 15 years living out of caves, tents, and then a Saturn station wagon to pursue the sport, Lucas stumbles through life but marches to the boulders, crags, and walls. Peaches Preaches is his monthly column. I stumbled into the Shrimpshrine, a co-op home gym in Salt Lake City. It was winter The shrine was kitted out with weights, a few hangboards, strange sideways campus boards, a stereo, and a mattress.
While it snowed outside, we thrashed our fingers on the first Moonboard in the US. Nik Berry climbs on the first Moonboard in the U. They all climbed in the tiny gym, pushing each other for beta, developing skills for harder climbing, and then applying their training outside.
Inhe drew a grid on a board that was 2. Moon then screwed on slopers, crimps, pinches, pockets, and foot jibs. He standardized the orientation and position of the holds so climbers could build an exact replica of the climbing wall at home.
Moon then created a downloadable list of the problems so that climbers could duplicate his board in their own gyms or home gyms; the Shrine crew created an exact replica of the Sheffield board and printed out a problem list in a white binder, marking the first Moonboard in the U.
My initial few days on the Shrimpshrine Moonboard felt discouraging. The Shrimpshrine list lacked easier problems, and I struggled to come up with my own. I failed on V4s. The oldschool hardmen set the bar high, demanding users climb hard. Even though most problems only involved seven moves, I would forget sequences.Humbled - The Moonboard - Benchmarks - Bouldering at Terra Firma
The climbing felt crimpy, powerful, and dynamic—all my weaknesses. I knew that the Moonboard would help me improve as a climber, even if I was just sending the warmups, and I liked bouldering with the Shrine Crew.
But the Moonboard felt too hard, too overwhelming for me. I let the idea of climbing on a Moonboard, of joining this foreign club, percolate.
Two years later, I returned to train in SLC and noted three differences. First, my friends had stopped climbing at the Shrimpshrine. They traded the mattress and odd assortment of weights for the cushy floor and uniform weights of The Front Climbing Club.
Though the facilities were nicer, there was still a Moonboard. Not only had I become stronger, but the Moonboard itself felt less overwhelming. I cycled through a series of easier problems with a larger longer-term goal in mind. The more I climbed on the board, the more accurate I became, I stabbed my feet on with more precision, and I stayed tighter to the wall when I felt extended.
I threw myself at Hardtimesa benchmark Ben Moon V6. I could climb through the few pumpy moves to a left hand two finger pocket and a right hand sidepull. Three days a week over a six-week training cycle, I tried the move and failed. Using a different right hand, I established a variation to the problem, Waiting for Hardtimes V4.I have climbed twice since Thanksgiving.
Scary, huh? Turns out the break was worth it—and so was tossing my generally healthy eating habits aside for a couple of weeks. You bet I slammed some pie over Thanksgiving, and I just got back from Hawaii. Lots of hiking and swimming—and drinking to celebrate our conquests. Life is to be lived. But between some nagging finger twangs and life in general, a break was much needed. I am fine, and climbing just as well as I was before.
I hit the Moonboard today and had my best session ever—without any funny feelings in my wrist or fingers. After some time for rest and reflection, I have decided to integrate the Moonboard into my training for the winter.
Getting Started on the Moon Board
Mostly for limit bouldering purposes since the benchmark V3 and V4 problems on it kick my butt. More on that later. A Moonboard is a training tool for climbers, first and foremost. It is a wooden board with a bunch of holds in pre-prescribed positions, set at a 40 degree angle.
The grades are stiff and the holds are mostly bad. There is an LED light above each hold and you can connect your phone to the board using the Moonboard App. The app allows you to light your chosen problem up on the board. Pretty sweet. However, I sense some grading inconsistencies in the gym—mostly dependent on the setter. One of the many benefits of the Moonboard is that it offers the ability to go back to the same problem session after session, year after year.
As long as the board remains, the route is available. Instead of hiking out to your old project, to check your progress as a climber, you can benchmark your progress with a route inside—pretty cool. In addition to the consistency, there are so many problems to choose from. You can tweak exactly how hard you want your limit problems to be, with the swipe of your finger on the app. Give it a read. A lot of that article is echoed in what I have laid out here as well.The Moon Board is essentially a training wall.
Ben Moon ——founder of Moon Climbing and legendary British climber——designed the wall with a standard blueprint including wall dimensions and angle, t-nut spacing, holds and hold angles, etc.
In this way, anyone who builds and trains on a Moon Board is climbing on the same Moon Board as everyone else. The Moon Board is becoming a fixture in climbing gyms both old and new. As the gym industry grows, the demand for a universal training utility grows with it.
The Moon Board enables climbers all over the world to train and challenge themselves on the same problems. Or perhaps I should say: the same hard problems. The Moon Board and its app feature notoriously challenging climbs. In a final blow to the ego, the grades are sandbagged relative to most worldwide standards. Is this a testament to the grit of the English?
Or is everyone else just soft? The standardized Moon Board panel dimensions are 8 feet in width 11 t-nut columns by The panel itself is angled at 40 degrees. There are currently three sets of holds available for the board Originals, Set A, and Set Bwhich can all be fixed simultaneously.
Before you try climbing on the Moon Board for the first time, download the app from the App Store. LED lights are shone through holes drilled below each hold on the board——green for the start hold sblue for the intermediate holds, and red for the finish holds.
This can seem difficult at first since many of the holds look similarbut as you use the board more and more it quickly becomes second nature. The Moon Board is a perfect training tool for the climbers who crave a little more challenge and variety in their workout. Here are some practical applications and results you can expect if you seriously dedicate time to the board:. As I mentioned earlier, there are thousands of boulders to choose from on the Moon Board app. The V6 in question is aptly named——the pogo is also known as the Moon Kick, made famous by Ben Moon himself.
I clicked the light bulb icon on the bottom panel, which connected my phone to the Moon Board via Bluetooth. Look closely to see the corresponding LED lights illuminated on the board. Let us know about your own experiences with the Moon Board. What do you like about it?Become part of the MoonBoard network by building your own board. Choose from our selection of MoonBoard kits to speed up and ease the build process.
The easiest method is to purchase one of our official build kits which include all MoonBoard holds, the LED system and ready-to-install panels. Choose from:. Buy all the individual MoonBoard components and source your own panel materials. It is essential that you space and drill the hold and LED holes exactly to the specifications outlined in our self-build instruction guide below.
If your self-drilled MB panels do not precisely match the official MoonBoard configuration, the difficulty and feel of climbs will be affected. To save yourself the headache, purchase your panels directly from Moon Climbing. They will arrive pre-drilled, t-nutted and painted with the classic MoonBoard design. A complete MoonBoard kit including a self-supporting laser cut, powder coated steel frame.
This kit includes eight ready-to-install, painted panels, the LED system, and all holds from your preferred hold setup. Individual Components Upgrade your existing MoonBoard with the latest hold set or the LED System, components are also available to purchase individually. You will need to possess carpentry skills, tools, and a minimum of two people.
The structural requirements of your MoonBoard frame may differ from those suggested in this document, however it is essential that your MoonBoard is built to the exact height, width and angles as those specified below. If you have any doubts regarding the construction of your MoonBoard, please seek professional advice. Fix your supports above the kickboard at the appropriate angle to your MoonBoard degrees or degrees.
How to train with a Moonboard
Align and attach each of the panels to the frame. The DIY Kit panels are pre-painted with the classic MoonBoard design, so allocating each panel to the correct spot on the board is very easy. To ensure your MoonBoard remains rigid, brace horizontally across the joints of the panels.
Login to your MoonBoard account to access the current available hold setups.
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